© Hermès
Lhasa, the city, has been the religious and administrative capital of Tibet since the mid-17th century. In 1924, Lhasa was forbidden to foreigners. Alexandra David-Néel continued to pursue her decades-long task at age 55. This Belgian-French explorer rubbed ash on her skin and tied yak hair in a pigtail. She and her apprentice Yongden disguised themselves as beggars to pass. After four months of travelling, below them, an extraordinary valley unfurled. The wind howled, a massive red-and-white building beyond range. The Potala Palace, the world’s highest palace, rises atop Red Mountain in the Lhasa valley of the Himalayas.
In Hermès' Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, the artist Aline Honoré captured the scene into her design “La Femme aux Semelles de Vent.” As described in the Hermès catalogue: The carré borrows its title from the epithet “The man with wind for his soles” that Verlaine has used of his friend, the travelling poet Rimbaud. It pays homage to Alexandra David-Neel (1868-1969), the explorer, versed in knowledge, who studied oriental philosophies and covered thousands of kilometres crossing Central Asia and the Far East. Like the rugs and clothing of these regions, the carre is bordered with fur bands, printed on the silk, and embroidered braids, mixing ethnic, geometric, or floral patterns, interspersed with pieces of gold-work, charms, and earrings of silver, coral, and turquoise."
A compass was positioned near the centre of the carré. It is one of the survey equipment that belongs to Alexandra David-Néel. She hid it with a pistol and a purse with money under her rags.
On both ends of the carré, six jewellery pieces on top of the tiger and leopard skins. Tibetans terrifying the devil by using the ferociousness of tigers and leopards. Their role is to deter the devil and prevent them from entering a particular space. Tigerskin pattern rugs were used by Tibetan lamas as sitting rugs, representing the Buddhist taming of the wild ego-centred mind.
The majority of ancient Tibetan red coral originated from the Mediterranean Sea. These precious gemstones travelled along the silk trade route via Iran, Samarkand, Ladakh and then finally ended up in Lhasa's markets. That’s how the precious gemstones - red coral from the bottom of the sea appeared on the roof of the world. As a traditional grazing nation, the Tibetans engaged in necessary trades in the markets. Small precious goods such as corals, turquoise, gold, and silver are more convenient for Tibetan to carry on themselves as both a commodity value and decorative pieces of jewellery.
In the carré, the ethnic geometric patterns and floral motifs are full of good blessings. The butterflies flutter on the chrysanthemum. The first character of butterfly 蝴 (hú) has a similar sound as the character 福 (fú) for good fortune. Butterflies also represent the power of love. The Chrysanthemum has tenacious vitality and means extended living.
寿(shòu)the Chinese character for longevity which is hidden in a narrow strip next to the Chrysanthemum. Peony represents wealth and prosperity. The orchid represents long-lasting friendship. Auspicious Clouds showcase in different formats, a beautiful symbol of endless luck.
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