2015 Hermès Scarf La Maison des Carrés

2015 Hermès Scarf La Maison des Carrés - Part 1 The H Silk Road

The silk season in Brazil begins in September/October and ends in May. The sericulture farmers head toward the sheds and start working in pre-dawn darkness every day during the silk season. With them are the Bombyx mori silkworms preferred food - the fresh white mulberry leaves.

The mulberry trees thrive over the moist, well-drained soil in the Paraná state of Brazil in sunny and humid subtropical south America. Since the 19th century, Brazil produces the finest silk in the market as the result of genetic improvement of silkworms, suitable weather and proper soil care. On average, each cocoon can be measured 1.2 km of continuous silk yarn without defects. Brazil is the only country outside of Asia where silk production is steadily rising and ranks fifth in the world. Sericulture provides employment opportunities, economic development and life quality improvement to the people who live in the rural area of Brazil.

As one silkworm will devour 15 kilograms of mulberry leaves in three weeks before spinning its cocoon, 300 silkworms will consume a total of 4,500 kilograms of mulberry leaves. When unravelling one cocoon, it would yield 1,500 metres of silk thread. Thus 300 silk cocoons would yield 450,000 metres needed for a 90 square-centimetre Hermès scarf on average.

From the mill of Brazil, which is 8,600 km away, the Perrin establishment workers in the ancestral silk capital of France, Lyon, unwind and reel the finest quality of Grade 6A raw silk with the world's best strength and stability. The Perrin establishment is owned by two families and has been weaving silk for Hermès for half a century. The whole process of weaving raw silk thread into rolls of silk twill fabric takes three months. After reeling, the thick raw silk threads are coated with sericin before woven threads to form silk twill called brins. Sericin is a natural macromolecular protein created by Bombyx mori, the silkworm. This natural polymer acts as an adhesive; it instantly hardens into two silk filaments after application. The silk twill will be washed in olive oil-based soap and machine pressed once the silk twill fabric is woven. The products are ready to be sent to the Hermès Lyon silk printing atelier.

Inside the Hermès silk atelier located in the suburb of Lyon where 4300 people are engaged in Hermès to make silk scarves, the roll of silk twill fabric unfurled on a table which is 150-meter long and set down for screen printing. Since 1937, Hermès introduced the first scarf to the world that was based on a woodblock drawing by a Hermès family member, Robert Dumas; it has produced more than 2,000 scarf designs by various artists in multiple colourways and different formats. It takes at least two years to complete each design, from concept to product.

According to the Interbrand global brand valuation, the Hermès International brand value approximately USD 18 billion in 2020. The silk and textiles division contributing about 9% to the company's revenues, ranks third in the conglomerate.

Photo credit to Hermès

In the Spring/Summer of 2015, Pierre Marie designed the carré "La Maison des Carrés" for Hermès, which depicted the story of a silk production adventure - The Carré-making adventure.

Hermès Scarf La Maison des Carrés - The Carré-making adventure

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