Photo coutesy of Hermès
In 2019, over 5,500 candidates from 123 countries participated in the first-ever international scarf design competition Le Grand Prix du Carré Hermès hosted by the luxury French Maison Hermès. Japanese artist Kohei Kyomori won first place in 2020. The design “Duo Cosmique” was issued as a special edition when the Hermès Omotesando boutique opened in the Spring of 2021. Hermès released the other six colourways in the Fall/Winter 2021 collection. As stated in the Hermès catalogue: “In Tantric Buddhism, A-Un refers to the beginning and end of everything. This philosophical concept is embodied here in the form of a couple with complementary energies. Japanese designer Kohei Kyomori, winner of the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès launched internationally in 2019, pays tribute to Japanese culture and its traditional kimono designs. As such, a tiger, the embodiment of courage, adorns the man’s jacket. Meanwhile, a peony flower, the symbol of perfection, touches the turban head wrap of his companion.”
Photo Courtesy of Hermès
From one corner of the carré to the opposite end, the ocean waves and sea breeze circulations are rising upward to enhance the floating clouds. With an aerial view from the clouds, a large ring engraved with the carré title Duo Cosmique embraces the iconic Japanese style great wave. It was inspired by The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a woodblock print created in 1831 by Katsushika Hokusai.
A couple of figures are placed on a diagonal line with a point reflection arrangement in the Carré. The female with mouth opened and the male with mouth tightly closed. The outfits merged contemporary clothing, traditional Japanese Kimono textiles and Hermès accessories into unified arts.
Tantric Buddhism was introduced to Japan from Northern India through China’s Silk Road. In the 9th century, Tantric Buddhism had a considerable following in Japan. Based on the description in the Hermès’s catalogue and the inspiration from Ms. Naoko, one can infer that the two characters are pronouncing the two syllables “A-Un” in Tantric Buddhism. According to the information from the teacher Yusho Miyasaka, “A” (阿) is the first syllable to be pronounced with the mouth opened; “Un” (吽hūṃ) is the last syllable to be pronounced with the mouth closed. In Tantric Buddhism, the letters symbolise the origin and ultimate universality. They refer to the beginning and end of everything. In Japan, A-Un (阿吽) alludes to the paired statutes of Niō (仁王) guardian kings and Komainu lion-dogs (狛犬) at the gate of Buddhist architecture and Shinto. Furthermore, A-Un (阿吽) is also used emblematically in some Japanese expressions as “a-un breathing” (阿吽の呼吸), which hints at an inherently harmonious relationship. The artist Kohei Kyomori depicted the life cycle aptly in the universe and harmony of Tantric philosophy through the two figures’ facial expressions in the carré.
Traditionally the combination of the fabric and patterns of a kimono defines a person’s social status. Each piece of kimono has its characters and specific meaning often associated with different seasons or specific occasions. The Wagara are the historical decorative patterns created for the kimono and yukata, inspired mainly by nature. At present, kimono patterns express and reflect personality, characters, mood, style, and identity.
The Shippo and Kanako Fawn spot patterns are evenly distributed on the ring. The original meaning of the Shippo pattern is cloisonne since the Heian Period in Japan. It consists of superimposed circles forming stars or petals which symbolise the seven treasures in Buddism, including gold, silver, pearl, coral, crystal, agate and lapis lazuli. It also represents harmony and a good relationship. The fabric with Kanako Fawn spots patterns is one of the most expensive materials due to the complex dyeing techniques and intense labour involved in its production.
Kohei Kyomori created three-dimensional sculpture effects on the two figures’ faces with various Japanese Kimono polka dots, half-moon waves and other geometric patterns, along with the immortal butterflies and glorious peonies.
The Same Komon, Kanoko and Mame Shibori are the different polka dot patterns created with varying techniques of the process which symbolises health and longevity. The Seigaiha pattern represents a peaceful sea, quiet strength and good fortune.
The immortal butterflies signify the evolution of the caterpillar. A pair of butterflies are a sign of happiness in marriage. The peony is the flower queen in Japan with protective force; the ancient Japanese believed the peony’s delicate scents could drive the parasites away. With its straight and robust stalk, the brilliant peony also represents prosperity, good luck, love, and honour.
The artist carves the female’s softer and delicate facial contours with outward Seigaiha patterns from cheek to jaw. The wave of water droplets dots her forehead as her hair bangs. Her turban is covered full of Kiri patterns with a braided ear of the rice pattern rim. The Kiri patterns covering her turban symbolise the flower of the Paulownia tree in Japan. Japanese usually plant the Paulownia tree at the birth of a girl, the wood from the tree will be used to produce handcrafted wood objects as her dowry when she grows up. The object ranges are furniture, musical instruments, jewellery boxes, tray shoes etc.
It’s believed the Paulownia tree would attract the phoenixes. As a symbol of rebirth, growth and longevity, the immortal Phoenix marks the start of a new beginning. A pair of Phoenix towards the sun choker necklace. The cherry blossom buttons enhance the outfit and act as a line of symmetry between the phoenixes. A fan-shaped Ginkgo ring on her finger symbolises longevity. The dazzling accessories on her arm are a stack of Hermès enamel, Chaine d’ancre bracelets and Tressages d’Apparat Chevron bangle etc.
The male chiselled and large bone facial contours are highlighted by the artist. Inward wavy Seigaiha patterns form the male’s hair on the temples. The sharp continuous triangle Uroko shapes as the eyebrows. The triangle Uroko is an ancient Japanese pattern symbolising the scales of a dragon, fish or snake which means a protective and lucky symbol. Two trapezoids frame his inner cheek with woven Ajiro patterns. The modernised hexagon Kikko patterns on his cheekbone were inspired by the turtle shell which means longevity.
The fabric with the strips is made of the Yagasur feather pattern and Yoshiwara Shima chain pattern adorns over the male’s head. Both patterns symbolise good luck. The Yagasur was inspired by the bird feather on an arrow, symbolising protection and happiness. The Yoshiwara Shima chain pattern represents links to the community. The braided Concentric Knot covering his eyes represents interlocked love.
Next to the Hermès Chaine d’Ancre Enchainee necklace is a tiger riding on the auspicious clouds. Although the tiger is not a native animal of the islands of Japan, it is frequently illustrated in Japanese art as a noble creature. People believe it could provide protection and ward off evil spirits away. In the past, it was also used as a symbol of high rank in the military.
In contrast to the other depictions with bold lines in the carré, the Sayagata pattern is meticulously depicted in sustained thin lines to create a light, airy and transparent space outside the ring. Sayagata represents the qualities of intelligence, strength and peace. The embroidered butterflies, appliqué patchwork quilted flowers and leaves have a floating illusion over the Sayagata patterns. Japanese quilters have developed their distinctive style by using traditional fabrics and motifs since the quilting technique was introduced to Japan in the 20th century.
The artist Kohei Kyomori encapsulates Tantric Buddism philosophy subtly within modern and contemporary design, together with traditional Japanese textile cultures and sculpture art. This wearable art reflects the Japanese craftsman’s spirit that has been developed by generations - the pursuit of excellence. In this piece of art, the artist archives a balance between innovation and tradition. Harmony is the enjoyment, the rhythm that comes from inner balance.
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